Category: Uncategorized

  • Chiang Mai pt 1

    Well, I'm writing this more to serve as a record of our trip then an
    interesting read, but here goes.

    I don't know what I types last, but after Suk 11 in Bangkok Lindsay
    and I took a night train from BKK to Chiang Mai. That involved
    spending anentire day in the BKK train station (lots of cards, lots of
    reading, etc) which wasnt all bad. I had gotten into my book "Bone
    Mountain" which was about Tibet and Buddhism and the Chinese making
    life difficult. Anyway, very good book and it gives some picture of
    Tibet and its religion, somewhat accuratly. Plus it gives some idea of
    what the whole "free Tibet" thing is all about.

    Anyway, I digress, I think. We ate some dinner in the train station
    with a fellow north American (quebec actually, however you spell that.
    Lindsay says this is correct but the iPod doesnt like it), then jumped
    on the train Around 7:30. This time around we had a second class air
    conditioned car, the only train available on that particular night (we
    had a reservation the next day in Chiang Mai) which was actually very
    nice. It was a bit pricey at 611 baht a person (~18 USD) but again it
    was the only option and Lindsay and I both much prefer taking the
    train to the bus, which is generally filled with tourists, not to
    mention making more stops. I should point out that I realize we are
    probably no better than other tourists, but its still nice to not see
    them.

    The train itself was nice, we were surprised and pleased to find out
    that we were provided with dinner (similar to airplane food, a bit
    less in quality, but similar and actually served in the same manner)
    as well as breakfast of sorts in the morning (a bun filled with berry
    jelly stuff). We read until 11 or so then watched "Hitch" on my ipod
    before *trying* to sleep. Neither Lindsay or I slept very well, and
    when we arrived in Chiang Mai at 7:20ish (12 hours on the train for
    those of you who don't have access to a calculator) we were both tired.

    Enter Chiang Mai, a very popular place for tourists with a bit more
    time and perhaps interested in getting out of the touristy tourist
    (note the extra tourist) areas of Thailand. While there are still Many
    tourists here there are also a lot of ex-pats and it doesnt feel at
    all "made for tourists," at least not in general. Just as an example,
    the popular night markets are popular to lacal Thais as well as
    tourists. Anyway Lindsay and I needed to get to our guest house so we
    hailed a tuk-tuk (our first! We have a video we'll post sometime) and
    paid 100 baht to get to our place the Hollanda Montri. The rooms were
    500 baht per night, not particularly cheap bit doable – plus there was
    AC and a TV (only channel in English was the Russian news station
    which turned out to be interesting as the big Russian/Georgia conflict
    started the day we arrived) and hot showers, etc. Hollanda Montri was
    heavily recomended by the people of the Internet and we were quite
    happy with it, though as you'll read we decided later it was not the
    place for us.

    We slept for a while that day until later in the afternoon when we
    walked around the city to get our barrings. I find that while it is
    exciting to first arrive to a totally unknown and new city, it can be
    difficult to get oriented and it is nice after s few ssys of wxploring
    to get a sense of direction/space/layout of a city. The first day (and
    in fact the first 4 days) we used our legs as our sole means of
    transportation. There are no metered taxis here (almost) so tuk-tuks
    and songathews (red/yellow trucks that sort of travel in routes around
    the city) are the only means of public transportation, and seeing as
    they require bartering to figure on a price and even still can be
    quite expensive they are not the best for exploring a city. We walked
    a long way our first day, and in each successive day as well.

    The city is sort of broken into two parts, an old city and new city.
    The old city is basically a square bordered by a moat (a real moat at
    one point I might add) with 8 gates at various points around the moat.
    At this point in time the gates are not really gates but a bridge (the
    moat isn't exactly a flowing river) although there is one actual gate
    still around. To be honest I can tell a HUGE difference between the
    old and new city, until you her a ways out of the city center things
    are fairly similar (street markets, restorants, etc). Anyway I'm not
    sure why I'm typing all of this if you really care about the cities
    layout check out wikipedia or wikitravel.

    The "first part" of our Chiang Mai stay was a mixture of three or four
    things:
    1) me getting a bit sick (not too bad)
    2) going to Burma for a "visa run"
    3) a cooking class at Baan Thai
    4) walking
    5) eating

    I'm typing all of this on an iPod so I'm not sure how much I'll
    actually write about each, but Lindsay (who is sitting across from me
    reading) just informed me she wouldn't write much about this stuff so
    I'll try.

    1) I was a bit sick, which sucked, but it was just a day and we had AC
    and a TV so it wasnt too terrible. I watched a lot of the same war
    footage from Georgia (S. Ossetia) and heard a LOT of the same Russian
    war corospondants say a lot of the same things.

    2) I seem to remember already typing something about this but to be
    honest I don't remember and at the moment I don't have Internet access
    to check so hear goes. Our 30 day tourist visa expired on the 11th of
    August and everyday after that we stayed cost us 15$ USD so we had to
    do a visa run -basically leave Thailand and then come back in (I feel
    deja-vu writing this). The closest country being Burma/Myanmmar we
    took a bus to the border, crossed over, and came back (ok not I'm sure
    I've written this before). Sort of silly I suppose. The bus ride cost
    us 600 each and the visa to Burma was 500. We met a wonderful woman
    named Susan and talked all day. We also had good fried food in Burma.
    It was sort of a long day and expensive, 11 hours or so in a bus.
    Actually a van. That night we went to mikes which didn't help with the
    budget (more on that later). Anyway now we can stay until September
    something.

    3) Baan Thai cooking class was quite wonderful. I wish Lindsay would
    write something about it as I'm sure I will not do it justice here.
    The class was all day(ish) from 9 am to 4 pm. It was exactly what we
    wanted (pretty much) and really well run. One of the best parts about
    the class was the people we met. We had a couple from France, a couple
    from Isreal, a woman from New York, and a brother/sister from
    Singapore/London. Those were just the people we sat with.

    You sit on the floor on matts around a table and are provided with tea/
    coffee when you first arrive, plus water pitchersa. Basically it was
    just very warm and hospitable. First thing we chose which dishes we
    wanted to make, there were six to choose from on total. I won't list
    them all but I chose a red curry paste, kohsoi, sticky rice and mango,
    spring rolls (just because they sounded good), and a prawn and coconut
    soup. Lindsays dishes were different though generally similar.
    Basicaly we each had one of each "type" of food (1 curry paste, one
    stir fry, one desert, etc).

    After choosing our dishes we went on a market tour which was quite
    spectacular. We walked around a "wet market" and purchased all of our
    ingredients, as we went t
    he girl who led the tour explained
    everything. You could tell they went there daily as they picked up raw
    ingredients (for instance shaved coconut used in the process of making
    coconut milk) to show us. That is not to say that this was a tourist
    market, it was very much a "real" street market which made the
    experience all the better. After buying the required ingredients we
    were happily surprised to be given 15 minutes to walk around the
    market finding things to ask questions about. Bonus: the guide would
    buy things we were currious about, out of Baan Thais pocket, so we
    could try them. Once the tour was over we headed back to the cooking
    school where they put together a rather nice looking spread for each
    of us with all of the foods that we picked out at the market,
    including fresh mangosteen and dragon fruit. It was a nice way to
    start the cooking class.

    The actual cooking was very fun. It was slightly less "intensive" then
    I would have liked, but that isn't really a complaint, just a personal
    preference. For each dish we moved to specific stations depending on
    what we were cooking. For the most part the ingredients were mostly
    prepared and cut, except for say, an onion and a tomato and perhaps
    some lemon grass. Then you basically put everything into a wok in the
    prescribed order and ta da! Food! There was luckily a little more to
    it then that, you learned little things like about Thai ginger, how
    you dont take the skin off of Thai garlic, etc.

    In the end it was lots of fun. We had fun making the dishes and were
    very full all day, plus we met lots of great people, including the
    brother sister combo Kai Wing and Wei Yee that we ended up going out
    to dinner with that evening (which was wonderful and amazing – thanks
    again!!).

    It was 900 baht per person (yikes!) well spent!

    4) not much to say about walking. In the interest of saving money
    Lindsay and I walked a good 10-20 kilometers a day. It's nice to walk
    as it gives you a better feeling for the city I think but at the same
    time when the city is somewhat large walking can be somewhat limiting.

    5) food. I love food, as some of you may know. Here we've had some
    spectacular food.

    To start with what was certainly the most extravagant meals of our
    trip so far (certainly on par with lindsays birthday sushi) was the
    meal that Kai Wing and Wei Yee treated us to at a resturant called The
    Whole Earth. There have been very few meals in my life that I have
    been treated to that have such a spread – fish, curries, palek paneer,
    an egg dish, naan, dimpling "things", normally I remember exactly what
    was served at any given meal but this meal was too big. Even better
    than the food was the company. Kai Wing worked and lived in Singapore
    and Wei Yee worked and lived in London. Wonderful people, very well
    traveled and interesting to talk with. To top it all off they payed
    the bill (which was substantial I'm sure), which while making us feel
    a bit guilty, was a very nice treat. Thanks again guy!

    Edit – OOPS! This should be in the next post as we are not at darets
    yet in this post!!****** All of our meals at our guest house, Darets,
    have been great. I especially apreciate the scrambled eggs on weat
    toast that are a welcomed break from Thai food. Plus the 20 baht mango
    shakes. Lindsay has been eating cashew nuts and chicken (for
    breakfast, which drives me crazy by the way) and "Lassi shakes" which
    are homemade yogurt and ice blended together. I normally love a good
    lassi but I'm not a huge fan of these. She loves them though, even at
    25 baht! 😉

    Near the public park in the south west corner of the old city (which
    in itself deserves a post – let the record reflect that I just nicely
    asked Lindsay if she would be willing to write something small about
    the park, she replied, "no, do it yourself!" – though to be honest she
    was [partially] kidding and she has been a most perfect traveling
    companion and I think we are both really happy to be traveling
    together) is a street that is covered with street food vendors. This
    is not at all special or unique as most streets are lined with street
    food vendors at one time or another, but these food stalls were top
    notch and a few of them were unique to this area. For instance, sushi
    stalls with decent maki sushi (rolls) for 5 – 10 baht a piece. Fried
    home made dumplings, fresh iced coffee, roasted nuts, buns shaped like
    fish with custard in them, and so on. Street food in general is great
    but Lindsay and I liked this place enough to come back twice. The
    environment at night makes it all the better, the park across the
    street is sort of like a city park combined with a carnival combined
    with a state fair, only much smaller and more condensed and with less
    crap. But still enough crap that people like me can play the games
    where you shoot darts out of a gun at stuffed animals to win prizes. I
    won a stuffed mouse-thing for Lindsay. There are also beatiful orchid
    displays all over for orchid judging competitions, kids painting
    statues (10 baht! I wish izzy was here!), and even a somewhat run down
    and miniature ferris wheel. Not to mention people all over serving ice
    cream for 10 baht (30 cents). Oh, and a small stage where we watched
    several local boy/rock bands perform. A wonderful place.

    Last but not least (as far as food is concerned) is Mikes Burger. This
    is a great place that is very very popular for good reason. They serve
    American style hamburgers, French fries, shakes, etc. It great not
    only because the food is very US American but also because it looks
    and is run in avery American way. People wear gloves when handling
    your food, your given "real" napkins, a bill, etc. Plus you sit on
    bright red stools at the counter, facing in, while behind you is the
    traffic of Chiang Mai whipping by your back. The food is really good
    and would satisfy anybody missing a real cheeseburger.

    Well thats about it for part 1. It has taken me two days and several
    hours to type this all out on my iPod. In reality this post only
    covers up to four days ago, we've been at our new guest house for over
    4 days but I wanted to split the blog post into two parts to keep
    things somewhat focused.

    Miss you all!
    Kev

    ————————
    asia.shoelessone.com
    (from iPod Touch)

  • Went to Burma today

    Quick post: lindz and I made a visa run today, which basically involved driving 5 hours to the border of Burma, crossing into Burma aka Myanmar, then crossing back into Thailand. It felt a bit pointless but at least I can say I’ve been to Myanmar -it’s amazing how different it felt, even just order the border. Anyway, it was another 5 hours back to Chiang Mai. We met a wonderful woman named Susan and had a great chat.

    Tomorrow in the AM we have a cooking class at 9 until 4 in the afternoon, which we are both very excited about. 6 different things to cook, plus a tour of the markets.

    Oh, tonight we gave into temptation and went to “Mikes Burger” and had hamburgers and a shake.

    That’s about it!!!

  • Narrative.

    “I am lead to the proposition that there is no fiction or nonfiction as we currently understand the distinction; there is only narrative.” -E.L. Doctorow

    So, we were hit by a train, yesterday.

    Not we ourselves, but rather when we were boarding, our train got hit by an oncoming train stopping at the same station. Not hard enough to knock us off the tracks or anything. But hard enough that all of the luggage in the overhead racks fell down, some of which hit me in the head, which in turn, knocked me off my seat, which unhinged and broke, leaving me flung over the seat in front of me with, no doubt, sheer panic on my face. It happened so fast I didn’t even know it was coming. I just remember Kev saying, “what is that noise? Is that a truck?” and me saying, “I doubt they have trucks on a train track, Kev…” and BAM. It was just that quick. Everyone returned to normal so quick it blew my mind. No one even seemed fazed.

    A common occurrence? Guess we’ll have to ride 3rd class more often to find out! Besides almost dying (just kidding:)) The train ride was awesome. We met some amazing people who spoke a bit of English, and invited us to come to their house in Chumpon for a while. Kev made origami for the little girl while we ate delicious cow lahm (sticky rice and coconut, grilled in bamboo), and saw some of the beautiful countryside we missed on the dark bus ride down.

    7 hours later, we made it to Bangkok and headed straight for Khaosan Road looking for cheap lodging, which thankfully, we found. The next day, we decided to head to “The Best Market in Bangkok” which apparently (according to our guidebook) sold everything from “Dalmatians to Thai Silk,” which I found funny. By the way, I have yet to see a Dalmatian in Thailand. We jumped a cab (Kev is getting to be quite the taxi hailer these days:)) and drove as far as we could reasonably justify before we planned on walking. **I should note that the day before we walked over 18 km in flop flops exploring the city, so we felt a taxi was somewhat deserved** No sooner had we jumped out of the cab, I felt a little gurgle in my stomach. You guessed it! I was sick again. So, we jumped back in the cab, this time not worrying about the cost–I just had to get home fast!! In the cab, while trying to keep my mind off “things,” I couldn’t help being reminded of my freshman year at Alma, where I swear to God I got every virus that went through the dorms. Luckily though, I cannot remember being sick in the 4 years after that year. My body had built up such stellar antibodies that I was unable to get sick. That is, until this trip. All I know is the individual who invented Cipro should be given saint-status as far as I’m concerned. Unfortunately, yesterday amounted to me huddled in a ball on my bed all day, with no purses or tacky souvenirs to show for myself. Sunday was supposed to be the best day to go too. I really wanted to see those flying squirrels.

    Today though, I feel remarkably better. Just in time for my special day! For starters, we somehow got into one of the best guest houses in Bangkok, which normally has a 3 month waiting list. It has the most amazing ambiance, and is living up to my every expectation. Also high on the list (and ignoring my sickness yesterday), we indulged in some AMAZING food (I hope this doesn’t come back to haunt me!!!:)). This morning for breakfast, Kev took me to get crepes at this really cute French joint (Cor, I wonder how similar they were to the ones you had in France? They were delicious, but unlike any I had ever had before.). After that we jumped on our old friend the Skytrain, and headed down to the bookstore where I lost myself for a few hours. I finally resurfaced from my state of rapture (with my books) with 3 new ones I couldn’t live without (who does that sound like?!:)) which Kev bought me for a special gift. I was on cloud 9. Still in my euphoric state, we headed down to get, quite possibly the best sushi I have ever had. We ordered so much food, nigiri was practically coming out of my ears. I was so full I felt like I was back in the States, with my glutinous side (that I know and love) risen from its 2 month dormant slumber. I was so full I couldn’t breathe properly. I was so full, I didn’t think I could walk…that is until Kev INSISTED we take a gander around the gorgeous bakeries and pick out a birthday cake. Naturally, I rolled myself right on out of Fuji Sushi, and right into this unbelievable pastry shop. After much deliberation, I chose a Triple Chocolate Mousse Delight. Just a slice. I couldn’t stand being THAT glutinous all in one day. While I recognize it’s not a Funfetti, it’s the closest thing a girl could get to a birthday cake, without being home and having her mom make one for her, am I right?! Trust me, I’m right. Jennifer Rose Hoornstra would have probably keeled over dead in that gem of a cake shop. That’s all I gotta say.

    After my long day of pure indulgence, we headed back to the guest house and snuck up to my room to eat the cake because I was too embarrassed to blow out my candles in front of everyone downstairs. As it turns out, we seriously did have to sneak it, because the guest house has some pretty strict No Eating in Rooms policies. So after the quickest rendition of “Happy Birthday” ever, and the ceremonious blowing out of the candles, we quickly swatted away all of the smoke in the hopes of disguising our cake-eating, rule-breaking selves from the fire alarms (there’s a No Smoking in Rooms policy too).

    And thank God we did. I’m just sitting here thinking about the evacuation of the building, and the “rescue” of the trusty Thai Fire Depot, which happens to be right down the street… HA! Now THAT would have been embarrassing!!

    And now, after all of that, I am left sitting here. Trying to savor my books (I’ve already finished one:() and recount a wonderful birthday memories. It was a good one. Kev did a really good job of making it special. Even still, I wish I were home, scrap that, I wish my family was here :)because no matter how great the birthday, it’s always better with your family.

    I love you guys. It’s getting late, and I might be getting a bit sappy (swwwen!!!)

    Indulge today for me,
    Lgt

  • Monkey

    Monkey

    We are going to have a bunch of out of order posts, because some posts are “queued up” on the ol’ iPod Touch with is internet connectionless (I’m amazed at the lack of open wifi networks in the middle of Bangkok).

    Anyway, just a short story, but I fed a bunch of monkeys and there were a few of them climbing up my pants and one of them pulled my pants down, and the Thai women who I bought the food from saw my area and laughed, and it was captured on “film”. There are a bunch more photos on Flickr, if you haven’t yet figured out the fancy “front page” (asia.shoelessone.com), the link to the flickr page is http://flickr.com/shoelessone – you should be able to look through the photos and make some sense of them.

    It was awesome.

  • Wave-alicious

    Def.def,def,def,def,def,def,def.
    Wave-a-licious definition, make those farangs vomit……

    So a few days late to post, but kev and I are on the trusty Songserm ferry from Ko Tao, to Chumpon! From there we’ll hop a train to Prachaup Khiri Khan, a small fishing village known for drying squid and cheap seafood (which is naturally why we’re going:)).

    Our time on Ko Tao (Little Turtle) has been great. We had a couple of amazing, once-in-a-lifetime dives, where we saw the most beautiful coral, anemones (I’m going to have to spell check that word, there’s no way that’s right!) and of course marine life ever….but the anemones were for sure my favorite. The entire time I kept thinking about my dad, and how much he would have loved it. The weather hasn’t been great–but still a welcomed change from the seemingly constant heat.

    That being said, I just have to tell you about the Ferry Boat Ride From Hell we took getting to Ko Tao. Around 11am, our taxi took us to the loading dock where about 200 college aged farangs, still hungover from the Half Moon Party, were all huddled under this holey, makeshift tarp about 30 feet long waiting for the boat. While walking over, I felt a couple raindrops, but by the time we made it to the tarp it started to DOWNPOUR. Remember when I said “when it rains, it pours?” well, this was no exception. Out of nowhere rain comes hailing down and everyone is trying that much harder to secure a dry spot under the tarp for themselves and their packs. No one succeeded. While we’re all standing there, huddling in the arm pits of strangers, the ridiculous wind whips a giant part of the gutter on this tarp around, and turns the spout directly on our heads. We are, SOPPING wet. There is 0 chance one single thing I have with me is even remotely dry. At this point, our ferry has made it to the dock, but the waves are so enormous, they cant tie the boat off to let the passengers coming from Surat Thani off. So we wait…and wait….and wait, for another hour until the boat crew has muscled their way into tying off the boat. Thrilled that our 2+ hour wait for the ferry is finally over, everyone is wet, but smiling and ready to board. The cheering and excitement stops, however, when we see the passengers get off the boat: white- faced, sickly people wearily lugging their packs, and, carrying multiple bags of their vomit. I tried to conceal my laughter, and sort of rolled my eyes at kev, who also found the scene to be somewhat humorous. We were just so wet, and so tired of carrying our now extra- heavy packs that we were ready to get on that boat no matter what. Well, let me just say, karma came to bite me in the ass for laughing at my fellow farang’s misfortune. We sat down at our seats, and a crewman came around to give us each clear plastic bags, “just in case.” ha. While I thankfully did not puke, I was holding on for dear life as our tiny boat was ENGULFED in the giant waves, and rocking us around like a pinball. The waves had earned a “highscore” after that ride, to say the least! All around EVERYONE (I seriously bet more than 1/2 the boat) was puking into their CLEAR PLASTIC bags, which after looking at (which you couldn’t avoid) would be enough to make anyone sick. It was unreal. Between the disgusting noises, smells, tears and rocking, it was, without question the longest 1.5 hours of my life.

    Things I’ve learned:
    1) Don’t laugh at other’s misfortune. We are in the land if Buddha, and that guy knows how to instill some serious karma on the deserving.
    2) Always keep raincoat and waterproofed bags close by during the rainy season.
    3) Stay away from Sangsum rum buckets before ferry rides… Especially if the weather is less than ideal.
    ——————————–
    Also: I had my first 1 hour long Thai Massage. Best $4 I’ve ever spent. Also, also: I just found out my family (Sean) bought 3 pigs which are now residing in our back yard. If you see my parents, be sure to call them “Maw” and “Paw” for me.
    Also, also, also: Kevin got really drunk last night after drinking less than a full 40oz Chang beer. Apparently those Chinese know how to make a strong beer!
    Also, also, also, also: I had French Fries with mayo last night, and they were a delicious reminder of home. ’tis all.

    Keep the ketchup off your shirts, Lgt

  • For the dive log

    For the dive logs,

    Japanses gardens, green rock -dive 2
    15 meters of vis

    Chumpun pinnacle -dive 1
    20-25 meters vis-very good, perhaps next best next to Cozumel
    Jellyfish on long swim, Lindsay almost ran into them. Dive was great,
    some great beautiful anenamies (sp?) and coral, large schools of
    smaller fish. Also saw a decent sized black tipped reef shark.

    Lindsay was a pro diver, perfect decents, etc. Plus perfect safety
    stops. A real pro.

  • Quick update from Koh Tao

    Hopefully my battery doesnt die before I finish this.

    As I type this the tide is high, I'm sitting on a sodden step that
    faces the ocean, which is maybe 10 feet in front of me. Behind me is
    the main office of the Big Blue dive operation that Lindsay and I dove
    with. It's 7:30 pm here and dark already. In front but to the left a
    bit is a Thai cooking fresh fish and other seafood to order, his BBQ
    "grill" has two legs in the water. It is a very nice atmosphere, to
    the right if me and again only a few feet away is a palm tree with
    lanterns hanging from it and surrounding it is a bunch of tables and
    mats where people sit on the ground eating their freshly cooked
    seafood. There seems to be a lot of large prawns, red snapper, and
    baracuda. It's a very "tropical island" atmosphere. Lindsay is running
    on the beach, which is lit up all along the coast with similar
    establishments. Music of course is playing.

    This will be night three on Koh Tao, and there us much to share. A
    terrible boat ride here, very good diving, and a so so experience with
    the "resort" we're staying at. I don't think I'll have time to post
    about all of this right now, so the details will have to wait until
    later. I just wanted to give a ganeral update on our progress and plans.

    Tomorrow we are taking a four hour boat ride to chumpan (spelling?)
    which is north of Surat thani which is where we first departed from.
    Then we take a 4 hour train to a small fishing village along the coast
    to the north, where we plan to stay for 1 or 2 nights, before we head
    back to bangkok to regroup before Chiang Mai, in the very north.

    Hope all is well for everybody, good luck Andrew!!!
    -kev

  • pinney pine pine.

    this just in: i LOVE PINEAPPLE SHAKES.

    love. love. LOVE them.

    in other, less exciting news (just kidding:)) kev and i have been livin’ it up on little ko phang. two days ago, after tooling around the island all day on our scooter, we headed down to haad rin, the main party beach, to grab a little sushi. it was this awesome restaurant, right next to the beach and while it may have been a BIT expensive, i had promised myself a good sushi dinner once we were here, and i was bound and determined to get it. so we waited for close to an hour for the place to open (most restaurant here don’t open until 7 at least) and got. the worst. sushi. ever. it was pretty depressing, but it was still a really fun, worthwhile experience…UNTIL! we walked out the doors and saw that it was raining. annnnd about to rain harder. ugh. for those of you that have heard the expression “when it rains, it pours…” i have no doubt that whomever came up with that lived on THIS ISLAND when they thought it up.

    now, normally i consider myself up for most things and if not a daredevil, at least willing to try things once. but i seriously did not even want to get on the bike. not at all. after a bit of convincing, we drove home, in the rain, on our scooter, with the crazy winds, rain, traffic and then…NO ELECTRICITY, for seriously probably close to 40 minutes. oh, and did i mention the hills?! the 20% decline hills?! i thought driving out west with nick when we saw the signs for 6% were bad, but no. i was scared shitless. during the day is bad enough, but seriousssssly. thankfully, we made it back, soaked to the bone, and were without electricity for about 1.5 days. yesterday, since there were no cold drinks to be had, or internet joints to chill out in, we headed up north to mae haad, where we partook in some of the best snorkling (or so we’ve heard) that the island offers. it was AMAZING. we saw some of the most beautiful coral i have ever seen, sea slugs were EVERWHERE, as well as crabs, parrot fish, and huge schools of fish i dont know the name of (ky, you guys want tropical fish!? get a parrot fish, very cool). we stopped a few times to get pineapple shakes (they really are the best here) and went back to our place so i could run. beach running here is awesome, but not at night (the tide) and i ended up stepping on a huge piece of coral in my attempt for an all-out sprint (yes sean, i know i can’t sprint :)) and ended up bruising my foot kinda bad. all in all though, it was an awesome day. and i got to finish WHITE TEETH, which was a really entertaining, fun read.

    i think we’re going to be here for another day or so, maybe finally get to go to the halfmoon party (as my previous sickness coupled with the terrible weather were not condusive to us going the first time), which is on the 25th. after which, i think the plan is to head up to ko tao for some diving, and then back to the mainland to see chiang mai. we shall see. we might just decide that beach life is something we want to extend our visas for.

    pineapples and love,
    lgt

  • Quick update – Koh Phangan day 2ish

    Quick update – Koh Phangan day 2ish

    update: here is another sweet video 🙂

    Very quick update as Lindsay is hungry and she gets like Nick when she is hungry.

    Today was perhaps the best day we’ve had thus far, we rented a scooter and rode around the south end of koh phangan all day long. it was honestly amazing, like out of a movie. We’ll post more about it later, but for now check out flickr for a few photos from the bike. sadly the photos don’t do the experience justice, so we took a few videos, unfortunately they were too big to upload right now (well, not really, but with lindsay’s hunger in the picture no way she’ll last another 20 minutes while the video uploads!), but there is a small one in which you can at least see the bike.

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/shoelessone/2684625779/ (edit: it’s posted below actually, hopefully. These computers are from 1993 I think, so things don’t always work.)

    Miss you all!!!

    p.s. here is a view from the bike:


  • Koh Phangan day 1.5

    Koh Phangan day 1.5

    Well, yesterday (or the day before actually) we hopped on the bus ride from Bangkok to Surat Thani. It was not great (but read on!) as it was shorter then expected and there was not much sleeping that got done. All in all it was better than I had expected though. After arriving sometime around 3 AM to a bus station, we waited another two or so hours on a concrete floor, trying to sleep, which worked out (again) better than I expected. Around 6 AM we took a bus to a dock, where we waited for another 30 or so minutes to get on this giant fairy. At this point I wasn’t feeling to great and the entire throng of people we were with looked like a group of zombies, for the most part. We got on the ferry near last, which means we didn’t get an air conditioned spot in the ferry (complete with a showing of Ransom) but rather were stuck on top. At first I figured this might suck (here’s where my positive attitude comes in) but it turned out to be an AWESOME boat ride, and I thoroughly loved/enjoyed it. The ride ended up being a long once, I believe we got to Koh Tao at around 10:30-11, and we got to our Island of Koh Phangan at around noon. All along the way though I sat in the front of the boat and the waves splashed up pretty good and I got soaked. It was wonderful, I love the water and it was a great ride.

    Unfortunately I wasn’t thinking too clearly until the end of our ride, and the sun was pretty intense. Lindsay and I both got burned pretty badly. Luckily I had a long sleeved shirt on, but my face and legs and scalp are still pretty painful. Lindsay looked pretty miserable yesterday, she looks better today, I think I look worse.


    notice my white legs, and ridiculously red face 🙂


    We (read I) was very nervous about finding a place to stay once we got to the Island. It turns out that while it’s the low season in mainland Thailand/SE Asia, it’s the high season for the island as the water/winds/etc are such that it has clear water and optimal weather. Our guide book said to plan on spending 4000+ baht (around 120$ US) for a room, which is around 7 times our budget. Luckily, when we got off the ferry on Koh Phangan (again this is yesterday, the 18th) there were a bunch of people waving signs shouting at you as you walked off offering accommodation. Lindsay asked one lady if they had anything for cheap, and she said they had a room for 500 baht (around 15 bucks US). That sounded great to us, and although I had a feeling it was going to be a total dump in the middle of the island far from the beach, we decided to go with it anyway.

    We jumped on the back of a taxi (literally hanging onto the side of the bus) and took a 10 minute ride to our place. We got off, walked across a questionably looking bridge to a spectacular place. Honestly the place is great, Lindsay and I each have a bungalow complete with a hammock hanging on our porch, a mosquito netting, a bathroom with a shower and toilet and sink (all which leak), etc. The people are the Happy Beach (as the place is called) are really nice, very friendly, etc. The beach is beautiful and is around 15 seconds away (truly).

    We met Abdel, an actor from Belgium who gave us a lot of information about the Island, renting scooters, etc. Like most places in Thailand the Happy Beach bungalows has a restaurant/bar on site, which is not at all like a restaurant in the US (or Bangkok for that matter). You sit/lay on the floor with mats, and the family is often watching TV in the living room, which is the same room as you are eating. For those interested in prices, I had a curry with chicken and vegetables and steamed rice for 75 baht (~2.50 US), Lindsay had a Shrimp and vegetable rice dish (60 baht, about 2 bucks), and she had a Lassi and I had a coconut shake (30 and 30 baht). Not the cheapest meals we had, but with our 500 baht rooms it was OK that the food was a bit more. Plus you can see the incredible blue water and white sand from the beach.

    Mr. Teeples: I’d consider this part of our trip to be a bit of a vacation :).

    Lindsay went to bed around 6 PM (I know) on account of her sunburn and general miserable feeling, I wasn’t feeling so bad and sat in our hammock reading a book I stole from Dad (sorry Dad) – a wonderful *cough* Clive Cussler novel, which I finished around 8 after which I jumped in bed myself.

    Lindsay woke up early today, I’m guessing around 6 if not earlier, went for a run on the beach, and found a small group of shops/internet cafes/bars/restaurants a few hundred feet down the road from us. I woke up at 9:30, brushed my teeth, and went into the town and found Lindsay. we used the internet and buy a pair of super-cool-dude sunglasses. That’s about where I am now, I slept too much so I feel sort of out of it and generally not spectacular, plus I’m getting over a bit of a cold. Lindsay and I both feel a bit burned and are going to try to avoid the sun today. I’m staving, and am going to see how much food is at the places in town here are.

    Tonight is the big Full Moon Party (I feel so dumb typing that), and tomorrow or the next day I’m hoping to rent a scooter so we can look around the Island without worrying about a taxi. The Island is very slow, traffic wise, so I’m not too nervous about it. We’ll see!

    Miss you all,
    Kev

    p.s. I’ll try to post some photos later, I didn’t know if we’d find internet and I didn’t want to bring all of my gear with me.

  • plans for the day

    Today is (I’m not sure the day of the week actually), the 17th of July. Lindsay may very well already be typing a similar post as I type this (she’s across the room) but I wanted to post anyway, just in case.

    Today we are catching a bus at 7 PM which will take us down to southern thailand, in particular (i forget the name of the town, Samui I believe) where we’ll catch a ferry to bring us to Kho Phangan, which is a smallish Island best known for the “full moon party”, which happens to be taking place the evening of the 19th. Lindsay really wanted to go to this “full moon party” and I’m sure it will be a good/fun experience, so here we go! (fake edit: here is a link to one of many tourist centered webpages about the full moon party. frankly I’m not a huge drinker/partier these days (some would claim I never was) so we’ll see what the full moon party is actually like – I’m just hoping to find a beach with some water. I can’t wait to go swimming in the ocean.

    The bus ride is 11 hours, but I believe it’s air conditioned so it shouldn’t be too bad. Well, in theory it shouldn’t be too bad, but it’s a night bus and frankly I’m not great at sleeping in anything but a hard flat surface. I’m not picky, I can sleep on the hard ground with rocks sticking into my back without too much problem, but sleeping while sitting I’m not great at. I am looking forward to the trip on a whole though, being able to see more of Thailand than just the limited view of the city. It’s our first real mini-adventure of many.

    miss you all,
    kev

  • khaosan.

    khaosan.

    well, we’re leaving bangkok. probably not for good, but for a little while anyway. 2 days ago, we left out guesthouse and headed out on yet another adventure in the city to find a new one. i had read about one in our travel guide that had really great things to say, so without much research, and a, “kev, seriously, we’ll figure it out!” we jumped on the skytrain and tried to manage our way.

    as you might expect with me in the lead, and our impeccable directional abilities, we got lost. very, very lost. 3 1/2 hours worth of lost, in a part of town where NO ONE spoke any english. kev, being the good sport he is, didn’t give me too hard of time, but did harrass me plenty about the address i happened to scribble down incorrectly in my rush to get out and see something new! needless to say, about about a million hours walking around with our heavy packs in the 100 degree heat, we happened across an aussie, who hailed us a cab and brought us to tourist heaven.

    Khaosan Road.

    while i’ve read a lot about this street over the last few months, nothing could have prepared me for the overwhelming jive of this place. this cancunesque, gringolandia mecca seemingly beckoned for all the whities of the world to come hang out, party till 4, buy ridiculously cheap things and lounge by the pool 24-7. it was QUITE the change from start of our trip, but an interesting one just the same. i almost have a sense of guilt about being here, but haven’t let that stop me yet! we’ve eaten our fair share of 20 baht pad thai noodles and devoured one too many delicious “bannana pancakes.” and did i mention our guesthouse had a pool?! a ridiculously chlorinated roof pool, where we read for hours upon end and lathered on a ton of sunscreen. it’s been a blast. (dad, i would consider THIS a vacation :))

    here’s a picture of kev in his room with some of his new purchases:

    thai fisherman pants, and a new special “water necklace”

    also, you’re not going to believe this, but Captain Jack was there. In Bangkok!

    yesterday, however, we (read: I (poor kevin!) :)) decided it was again time for something new. i ended up convincing kev that we should head down to ko phargan, for the full moon party on the 19th. we’re leaving tonight on a 9 hour bus trip south, to do a little island hopping! I cannot WAIT! it too will be a big tourist haven, but i’m excited to meet some new people and experience island life. maybe i’ll even get to do a little surfing! we shall see! here’s where we’re headed!

    on an entirely different note, yesterday, amidst all of the craziness of this place, we saw something great. a woman peeing on the street with no regard for the people, motorbikes or stray dogs among her. she was extremely well dressed, and while kev adverted his eyes, i practiced another serious character building exercise ( yet again) as i tried not to gawk and grin. while i did try to give her a bit of privacy (not that i can imagine she cared!!!) i couldn’t help but walk by with a big ol’ goofy grin.

    oh, and we saw an elephant just cruzin’ down the road.

    yes, my friends. welcome to thailand. where well dressed women, imitate the squatty potty, and take care of business right on the street (beats waiting in line for the women’s bathroom, that’s for sure!) while elephants meander right along side the motobikes.

    anyway, i’m off to find some lunch. the feast of tomatoes and bread i had for breakfast has worn off and this girl’s getting hungry!!!!

    love and sarongs from thailand,
    lindz

  • Note to self:

    I have yet to find a SINGLE open wifi network that actually works. If
    this message is ever posted to the blog it will basically be a miracle.

    ————————
    asia.shoelessone.com
    (from iPod Touch)

  • better late than never!

    so we made it!!! better late than never for a post, i suppose! i had great intentions of writing yesterday, but i just had too much to do in the good ol’ internets, and ran myself out of time (and money :)) before i could post!

    so here i am!

    day 3!!!! i can’t believe we’ve already been here for 4 nights, it’s crazy really.

    so we’ve been having an awesome time so far. I’m not sure what kev has posted or not (so sorry if this is a repeat!)

    we got in really late on saturday night — after a 16 hour+ flight, kev was too tired (or something!!!) to ward off the unwanted harassment of the non-metered taxi guy, so we jumped into his supped up honda accord, with fuzzy pink steering wheel cover for quite possibly, the longest taxi ride of my life. i’m not sure if it was because we were just totally whipped, or because we were getting seriously taken by this guy, the ride was long. veeeerrrry long. but interesting just the same. i even had 2 maps printed out, 1 for us, and 1 for the driver, so we would be less likely to get screwed, but after hearing “oh, very far!!! very long drive!” in his broken english, i knew no amount of maps, or “sir, it says we were supposed to turn on on nut road?!” would make us get there any quicker (or cheaper for that matter!:))

    so we’ve been staying in a really cool little youth-style guest house. the people are really helpful and friendly, and overall, it’s been a great experience. we’re changing guest houses tonight though…time for something new. here’s a picture of my room the first night. they didn’t have anything “smaller” available, so TADA! big awesome bed ANNNND A/C for the price of just-about-nothing!!!

    yesterday, kev adorned his newly purchased yellow “long live the king” shirt (the majority of thai’s wear yellow shirts on mondays to honor and respect their king…as monday was his day of birth! — i’ll try to post pictures later :)) and we went to see a movie in this ridiculously huge and spiffy cinema. (we’ve been seeking out air conditioned places like it is our job here!!!!)we saw hancock, which was honestly really enjoyable/humorous. although it was easy to get lost in the movie, and forget we were in a foreign country, we were snapped back into reality when we the national anthem began playing, and we all stood and paid respect (yet again :)) to the king at the beginning (and end) of the film 🙂

    also, we have eaten some ridiculously good food. the first day, i had this huge plate of delicious noodles for seriously, 33cents (10 bht). craaaazy!

    on a totally different note: after seeing only a hand full of white people so far, i have come to realize that i don’t need to darken my skin to fit in a bit better. no. i need bangs. and cute shoes. you would not believe how cute the shoes are here…and i am not even a shoe person!!!! but for less than $3 you can snaz yourself up with some cute little heeled shoes….and since kev has already done a little shopping of his own, i think it’s about time i “splurge” and buy myself some shoes….and bangs.

    kev’s still sleeping as i type this. we’ve been on some crazy sleep schedules lately. i woke up 2 hours ago (6am) and haven’t been able to sleep….unfortunately by 8pm, i’m totally spent, and ready for bed. but, since i’m up, i’m doing a little research on where to go next…there are SOOO many places i want to see, so much i want to do. it makes me nervous that i wont be able to see everything in a month. one of the more touristy things i’m really excited for, is the full moon parties in Ko Phangan. it’s this giant beach party, where thousands of people come to hang out and celebrate the full moon. this month, it’s on the 19th…which might be pushing our schedule a bit to get there. we shall see. i’ll be trying to talk kev into it as soon as he gets up 🙂

    anyway, i think this is enough of an update for now! i miss you all, and wish you were here to eat pad thai with us!!!

    xxx

  • Another quick update

    Quick update:

    Lindsay told me that my post earlier didn’t sound particularly positive, which after reading it I’d have to agree.

    Let the record reflect that it’s been an incredibly awesome, exciting, amazing, beautiful, and all around good day (now two days). I can’t REALLY complain about much, other than:

    Today I was actually sick. I always thought I was supposed to get typhoid or diahrea or something similar, but I actually hve a pretty bad sore throught. Not exactly a deabilitating sore through, but not particularly pleasant. Lindz and I still had a great day, today we headed to Siam Square, which is sort of the huge shopping mall/shopping district – or so I’m assuming. The malls we went to were incdibly awesome, and the stuff in the malls was expensive – too expensive for us. There was even a lambergeni dealership (crazy). We had pad thai for the first time today.

    It’s around 8:30 as I type this and I think Lindsay may have already headed to bed, I’m very tired but just got off the phone with my mom. I’ve gotta say with my sore through (in addition to my first “Singha” beer I had tonight in a little street square with two dudes singing/playing guitar on a stage – awesome) bed is going to feel really good. I’m trying to push back my bed time as much as possible so I don’t end up waking pu at 3 AM as I did today.


    bar on the right. music up front. markets all around.

    We are hoping to head on to a new hostel tomorrow, Suk 11 (suk11.com) but I haven’t heard back about our reservation yet.

    Tomorrow Lindz and I are probably going to spend a few hours and figure out where we should go next after Bangkok.

    For now, good night (actually, morning) to all of you in the US. To Anthea, good afternoon/evening/whtaever it is in Germany. To Brittany, same to you, except at the hospital.

    <3
    Kev

  • Day 1 down

    Quick post, as I’m running out of internets: We made it through day one. We started out walking around our guesthouse which frankly didn’t do a lot for the spirit. I felt pretty out of place, not because we were the only farangs around but because every thing felt pretty depressing. We’ll get used to this type of thing probably. We then hopped on the “sky train” and went to the centerish of bangkok (40 baht for the 1 way ticket, roughly 1.25 US) which was awesome. Lots of street vendors with awesome looking food, fresh fruit, etc. We didn’t eat much from the street vendors and we avoided the fresh fruit and things as we weren’t sure what was safe to eat yet and didn’t want to get sick the first day. I worried a lot about where to find bathrooms, which I don’t think will be too difficult. Neither Lindsay or I know basically any Thai yet, which sort of sucks. I’d like to say “Thank you” in Thai, and I know how, but I don’t know when you actually say it. I haven’t taken many pictures, frankly I just don’t feel like it. I took a few just to have something to put up, but I’m seriously considering sending my digital camera back to the states as apposed to lugging it around for the next 5 months. We’ll see. Lots of stuff to look at, but I just don’t really feel like whipping out my camera.


    here’s me eating breakfast our first day. we ordered “english tea, thai rice porridge, and boiled eggs.” it actually was, “english tea, salted rice soup and a ridiculously salted/preserved egg.” interesting.

    I have terrible breath, I’m not sure why but it is. I just brushed my teeth, but it’s still here. I bought a yellow shirt yesterday for 6 bucks US as I guess Monday’s are the days everybody wears yellow in honor of the King. Money will stretch pretty good here, if we are somewhat careful. We had lunch/dinner for 33 cents yesterday, internet is 2.50 for an hour, sandals are 2 bucks, etc, etc. Our room is around 12.50 each (25 bucks total) for air conditioning, etc. Tonight Lindz and I are going to see a movie, hopefully the new batman movie. She wants to see the Will Smith movie though, even though she has no idea what it’s called, what it’s about (she said it might be about Will Smith being a super hero, or in a war, or something). We’ll see what happens I guess! Last night we went to bed around 7 PM. Well, Lindz went to bed around 6 PM, I went to bed around 7 PM. I think this may have been a bit mistake, as we woke up at around 4 AM this morning and couldn’t get back to sleep. It could be a somewhat tiring/tired/etc day today. Miss you all! Here are a few pictures I took just to post here: Here is my room: Here is the city sort of:

    Love and miss you all!!! Kev

  • Lindsay fliest business

    Not sure the order these will get posted as we have no WiFi so they may or may not be sent in order – but we’ve made it to our connecting flight at Narita, and Lindsay and I are both going to make it on the flight (thanks again Jan!) but only she will be flying business this leg of the trip. So she is lucky. I’m lucky because it’s a shorter flight, only 5ish hours, so coach isn’t bad.

    Edit: Actually I think I almost got an equal seating situation. Not quite, but I got a isle seat and of the 5 seats in my row, only one other was occupied. So I had three empty seats next to me. I think Lindsay’s dinner was a bit better though!

  • Truth about flight 891

    I read what Lindsay wrote, for the most part, and business class really is awesome – Jan, thank you so much. I feel very lucky. Really.

    Dinner was gerat, I honestly can’t imagine what could be the advantage of sitting in first class, business is just so awesome. I’m sure there is an advantage, but really this is great.

    We decided to check our luggage – well, actually I had to and Lindsay figures she might as well also. I’m a bit nervous about loosing our luggage but I have all of my impotant/expensive stuff anyway, including clothes, so worst case I’ll need to buy a new pack or something (EDIT: we have our bags!)

    As I type this I’m south of the tip of Alaska, it’s around 9 PM in Michigan, 6 in Cali, and 10 AM in Tokyo. We expect to be to Tokyo by 4:34 PM. I’m listening to XM satalite, in particular dance technoish music.

    I’m wondering if I should try to sleep for a few hours now or something. I want to minimize the effect of “jet lag” but I also want to be awake/not miserable when we get to Thailand as it’ll be 11 PM there and could e a bit stressful (EDIT: it was a bit stressful, but not too bad).

    Only negative thing I can say is taht while my dinner was awesome, the guy next to me had sashimi, crab, and fish for dinner, but I guess you had to order it ahead of time.

    I’ve seen 2 movies so far on the flight, I forget the names. One was “Flawless” and another was about a smart english teacher who was jaded. I think it had Dennis Quade or something in it. Now I’m gonna watch some moving about treasure hunting, which frankly looks terrible but it’s a 10 hour flight and the movie has scuba diving in it so why not.

    We seem to be losing altitude fairly quickly and the fasten seatbelt sign is on. Either we’re avoiding turbulence or I might be the next Sawyer+Jack. (EDIT: We didn’t crash).

    <3
    -kev

  • Wow. Wow. Wow!!!!

    Wow. Wow. Wow!!!! We’re just getting settled in our Business Class seas, same row, just a few seats down. I snagged a window seat next to a Taiwanese man named Yi. He speaks no English, but tells me I spelt his name correctly. Step one: check. Good to know I can put my English degree to work and spell the man’s 2 letter name correctly. Go me. I just put on my complimentary slippers and blanket, went thru my “goodie bag” of Japansese soaps, lotions, sleeping mask, and ear plugs, all while looking out at the gorgeous LA sky, reclined back with my feet up AND sipping champagne (seriously)! Ahhhhhh!!!!I feel like the luckiest girl alive. Oh, and while I type this, I just got handed the menu… And since I have nothing better to do besides brag about my good fortune (THANK YOU JAN!!!:)) I just have to tell you what we’re oging to eat (because as we all know, there isn’t much that gets me more excited then food!!!):

    To bring: orange and Ginger duck confit and soba noodle salad, fresh seasonal greens with sesame Ginger vinaigrette…

    Main course: morel mushroom risotto and herb rubbed chicken breast

    crabmeat in layered eggs, salmon temari, budock wrapped in gla
    zed beef, shrimp with fish eggs, seared tuna with wasabi dressing and somen noodles…

    Served with green tea.

    Dessert: international cheeses and apple cobbler…

    Midnight snack: sandwiches, Ghiradelli chocolate and hot noodles…

    So I realize I’m getting all excited about airplane food, but seriously!!! I feel like an LA celeb… Fine, more like a Midwest celeb (I don’t fit in this crowd…I’m too lame:)) but I truly cannot believe I’ve been so lucky.

    On a different note, my dad is having knee surgery today. Hopefully it’s going well for him. Oh, and it’s nick’s first day at Boeing. Too bad with a 16 hour time difference in Tokyo I won’t find out how either went until tomorrow.

    I think this is enough iPod touching for me today. My finger is cramping up. I also think I’m weirding out my new friend Yi…. I haven’t stopped smiling and he keeps looking over, probably to see what’s so funny.

    From the Pacific skies with love,
    LGT